Lessons learned north of the Limpopo

20 March 2022
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Harare newsstand

A newspaper vendor on the streets of Harare 

I had a rare opportunity to spend three weeks in Harare, Zimbabwe between February and March. Here are some things I learned.

Seasonal rainfall is huge concern for most Zimbabweans because almost every person I encountered is into farming.

Relatively small patches of land are used for planting maize and sugar beans, which means that late or failing rains have consequences.

Poultry farming is ubiquitous.

One can order egg incubators and have them delivered to your home.

Fuel is at the top of the priority list for anyone who has a vehicle.

One can only buy fuel in Zimbabwe using US dollars. But US dollars are in short supply through official channels. So immediately after receiving a salary payment, the average Zimbabwean motorist will change enough local currency for US dollars on the black market to ensure they are able to transport themselves over the following month.

There are no minibus taxis in the urban centres.

Eight years ago, the central government announced that southern Africa's most ubiquitous form of transport would be phased out. With Covid lockdowns in 2020, this became an outright ban. A state-run bus service is now the only option for the masses.

Almost everyone has a side-hustle.

Basics such as sewing, cooking, baking, hairdressing, have always been around, but importing scarce goods (frequently from across the border in South Africa) and selling them to the local market is widespread.

Athletics is hugely popular across all classes.

In hindsight, this makes a lot of sense as athletics requires minimal investment in imported kit.

There's a strong culture of literacy.

Newspapers and magazines are on sale everywhere, and they make money.

I spent an entire week without seeing a single white person.

Admittedly, this was because I was based primarily in the CBD and did not go to the more affluent suburbs.

Yes, Zimbabwe has affluent suburbs.

Don't believe the stories around a collapsed economy. A Mercedes-Benz dealership and a Pam Golding billboard are signs of wealth on both sides of the Limpopo.

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